Saree is a common term in Indian culture worn by female which stretches around five to six yards in length and is worn along with blouse material stitched according to their need of the wearer. When people of other countries hear our the country name ‘INDIA’ the first thing that strikes everyone’s mind is the culture and tradition the Indians carry. To be specific the type of traditional and colourful clothing the people wear and the minute detailings of the work the dress carries speaks volume of our heritage. So when it comes to Indian women’s dressing the one that lightens everyone’s mind is the saree- the colourful, grand attire stretching from head to toe wrapped in various styles according to the region, culture, their own state tradition and the type of sarees Women wear.
Though there are more than eighty number of sarees in India the type Chikankari saree is one of the most famous and liked by all women in India because of its minute colourful shadow of embroideries all over the saree. When tracing about the origin of chikankari saree works it is said that the word ‘Chikankari’ has been derived from Persia meaning intricate detailing works done on a fabric. In India, the chikankari works has been originated from Lucknow being the most renowned place for this amazing chikankari works.
The Chikankari saree types basically come out with three varieties of stitching as flat stitches which means the stitches will be very subtle and remains very much attached to the fabric. The embossed stitches which gives an elevated grainy appearance from the fabric and the Jali work done by giving thread a tension which ultimately gives a net effect on the fabric. The chikankari sarees undergo many processes before the final outcome like cutting, stitching, printing, embroidery, washing and the final outcome.
In block printing phase where the designs are made on the fabric of choice. Then the cloth is cut according to the garment it will take form and using multiple wooden block stamps the designs are printed in blue coloured ink on to the fabric. After this for embroidering the fabric is then set within a small wooden frame part by part as the needle work begins to trace the ink printed patterns. The type of stitching an artisan chooses depends on the specialty of the region and the type and size of motifs.After the embroidery phase the fabric is soaked in water to remove the pattern outlines and then it is starched to obtain the right stiffness depending on the fabric type. Usually there is a combination of different Chikankari stitches used within one whole pattern as Makra, Kaudi, Hathkadi, Sazi, Karan, Kapkapi, Dhania-patti, Jora, Bulbul and many more. There are also 10 principle stitches made from raw skins of thread as Jali which uses minute buttonhole stitches with a wide blunt needle where the thread is not deeply inserted
through the fabric, making it hard to distinguish the front from its back side. Tepchi is the one which is weaved on the right side of the fabric forming a outline of a motif, Murri being a very minute design and minimal patterning, bakhiya where the thread work is done on the back side and its tint can be seen in the front, Zanzeera is a chain stitching work pattern and hool is a detached eyelet stitching used to add highlight to the center of the flower. Rahet is a single stitch pattern creating stem designs, keel kangan is used for adorning floral motifs and petals.
Chikankari work is available in almost all kinds of fabric like muslin, cotton, silk, georgette, net, kota, voile, doriya, organza, faux fabrics etc. With respect to Chikankari works maintenance is highly important as it should only be dry cleaned for the long life of the minute thread work done on the fabric. LimeRoad offers you with a wide range of chikankari work sarees available according to your fabric need, colour ranges, with minimal to grand working on the saree suitable for everyone’s taste and need.